February 27, 2012

Cruising around Cape Horn


Cape Horn:  Happily with calm seas!
Greetings from Argentina.  Thanks to your prayers and kind wishes, we made it around Cape Horn in calm seas.  We just completed our 15 day/14 night cruise from Valparaiso, Chile to Buenos Aires, Argentina on Celebrity Infinity.  This is our second cruise of our trip; the first one was in the Mediterranean in September.

It has been great to stow our gear.  The food on the ship is yummy and plentiful and the evening shows have been fun.  We have been particularly impressed with Sebastian and Suzette, the aerialists who wow us with their strength and coordination.  The dancers and singers have been fun to watch too.  We even got a chance to see Juan Pablo, a pianist and his girlfriend Kachita again.  (They also entertained us on our Med cruise.)  We have also enjoyed the lectures offered by the naturalist, Graham Sunderlin and the physicist turned historian, Rod Jory. 

As with our Mediterranean cruise we have met some lovely people this trip: Patrick from Wells, Peter and Jane from Canterbury, Manijeh and Manfred from Frankfurt, Sole and Keith from Santiago, Barry and Teresa from Sydney and a host of Americans including Cassandra and Adam from Colorado, Carol and Clara from New Jersey, Loni and John and Lynn and Dan from California.
Parque Nacional Vicente Perez Rosales near Puerto Montt

Our stops have included Puerto Montt, in the Chilean Lake district, Puerto Aranas, Chile, Ushuaia, Argentina (the most Southern town in the world) and Puerto Madryn, Argentina.  We had a stop in Puento del Este, Uruguay scheduled but the port closed due to high winds.  So that gave us an extra sea day.  Our last port of call before Buenos Aires was Montevideo, Uruguay.

We have seen penguins, guanacos (similar to llamas), flamingos, condors, albatross, sea lions and lots of stray dogs.  

Although the Chilean fjords were a disappointment, Mark was completely taken with Glacier Alley.  We expected to see fjords like those in New Zealand or Norway but instead the Chilean fjords looked more like islands.  The area is pretty but it lacks the awe of the sheer fjords we expected. On the other hand, Glacier Alley was spectacular.  Mark finally showed his latent photography talent by taking over 70 pictures of the glaciers as we passed by them at dusk and at dawn. 

Glacier Alley in the evening 
Glacier Alley the following morning
























The lakes region is lovely and I hope to return there after we visit Peru and Ecuador.  


Osorno Volcano near Puerto Montt

Exploring the bog and visiting the waterfall near Ushuaia
We were very fortunate during our stay in Patagonia.  Even though we visited during the summer, we were wearing jeans, long sleeved shirts and jackets.  The winds can be wicked but we had sunny days with lighter wind.  Puerto Arenas, Ushuaia, and Puerto Madryn are in this most southern region.  We walked all around Puerto Arenas, visiting a local museum and their ornate cemetery. Thanks to Peter and Jane’s generosity we took a lovely hike outside Ushuaia through a bog and up into the hills to see a glacier fed waterfall.


In Puerto Madryn we ventured to Peninsula Valdes to see sea lions basking in the sun and penguins lining the seashore while wild guanacos grazed on the side of the road.  Moreover, we learned a valuable lesson on this trip---check the taxi before taking a tour.  About 5 kms outside of Puerto Madryn, when Hector, our driver, tried to go into 5th gear, the clutch slipped.  Hector had to crawl under the car to reattach the cable.  Along with our travel partners Cassandra and Adam, the four of us were able to complete the rest of the 100 km trip but we never went back into 5th gear. 





Sea Lions sunning at Peninsula Valdez
Magellan penguins--we didn't actually see them
this close but if we had, this is how they look.



























Of all the port calls, I think my favorite one has been Montevideo.  It reminds me of a movie set.  It is elegant, modern and camp.  While the main streets boast Gucci and trendy shops, a few blocks away, the streets are litter strewn and unkempt.  Montevideo seems to be in a charming time warp.  
The Gaucho Museum in Montevideo
Montevideo fountain




We spent nearly two days in Buenos Aires but I really don’t have much of a sense of the town.  On our first day with Cassandra and Adam, we took a 3-hour walking tour around the Montserrat area with our tour guide Oliver and then walked via Florida Street back to the ship.  Yesterday, our priority was to get a locker at the bus station so we could leave our luggage since we departed the ship at 10:00AM and didn’t board the Iguasu bus until 7PM.  We had scoped out the bus station the day before, and found large lockers that would accommodate our backpacks.  However, yesterday although large lockers were available, the coins necessary to close the lockers were not.  Happily Mark was able to shove each of our backpacks into a smaller but deep locker.  This is why traveling with less is definitely the way to go! 
Buenos Aires street


Once sorted, we spent the day exploring the San Telmo street market, and the Montserrat area Oliver had introduced us to yesterday.  We visited the oldest building in Buenos Aires that had been the home and office of the Spanish viceroy and is now a museum, and the President’s office known as the Pink House. 
Dancing the Tango on Florida Street in Buenos Aires

We will return to Buenos Aires from Quito.  Hopefully we will get to see more of the city then. 

Evita 
We just arrived in Iguazu Falls on the boarder of Argentina, Brazil and Paraguay.  We just spent 20 hours on what was suppose to be an 18 hour bus ride from Buenos Aires to Iguazu.  Happily we have learned to sleep almost anywhere.  Traveling—it’s always an adventure!  Until next time.....

February 17, 2012

Ola from Chile


The Andes
We are now on a 15-day cruise around southern Chile and Argentina.  What a luxury it is to unpack and stay put for 2 weeks!

Vina del Mar 
I am so happy to finally have arrived in South America!  This has been a bucket list item for me since I was in college.

We arrived in Santiago from Auckland about two weeks ago.  Our first stop was Vina del Mar, a lovely beach town about 2 ½ hours Northwest of Santiago.  We stayed in a sweet bed and breakfast owned by Juan and Carolina.

Pelicans in Vina del Mar
One day we walked about 12 miles round-trip to see sea lions. Unfortunately, the sea lions were far away and sleeping.   However, we had the good fortune to find a pelican colony in Vina del Mar.  We walked around the beach marveling at the sand art and stopped at Wulff castle that has been turned into museum with sculptures and great ocean views.  We found a delicious French crepe restaurant where we ate twice.  We were quite surprised that the restaurant had so few guests considering how delicious the food was.  When we asked the waiter why it was so empty at 8:30PM, he explained that most guests don’t arrive until 10PM.  And here we were thinking we were eating late!

There is no doubt that Vina (and the rest of Chile ) time is not Shafer time!

After three nights in Vina at a lovely but very noisy B&B (dogs barking, families and friends talking until 2AM with their windows and doors open) we decided to take a trip to Mendoza, Argentina.  The trip over the Andes had been highly recommended.  From Vina to Mendoza, it took about 8 hours due to the 2 ½ hour boarder crossing.  The road has 28 switchbacks on the Chilean side.  The Andes are impressive but uninviting.  Very little lives in these mountains due to their ruggedness and lack of vegetation.

Mendoza, Argentina is becoming a popular tourist destination for wine connoisseurs.  Mendoza has a perfect climate for growing grapes.  The most famous is Malbec but Cabernet and Merlot are also grown along with many varieties of white wine.  We lucked into a 5 star hotel thanks to an advertisement in Booking.com.  It was a welcome treat to be able to sleep in silence! We met a geologist on our first evening.  Peter, who is from Canada, travels a lot and knows Mendoza well.  He suggested a restaurant called A la Fran just around the corner from our hotel.  The food was absolutely superb!  We finished dinner around 11:30PM; it’s a challenge to go to sleep on such a full stomach.

The highlight of our visit to Mendoza was the local tour we took.  Along with 4 other people and our two guides we biked to three vineyards, saw how the wine is processed and received a wine tasting at each vineyard.  The tour culminated with an Argentinian BBQ, (cooked by the owner of the tour company) more wine, mate (a tea type of beverage shared as one would a peace pipe) and a pool party.  We had a blast.

Mapuche art
After 4 days in beautiful tree-lined Mendoza, we headed back to Chile but this time to Valparaiso.  Just South of Vina del Mar is the port city of Valparaiso.  This lovely town situated on 11 hills is a fun and funky place that seems to be crying out for some tender loving care.  Although there is some construction, many homes and businesses look like they are 50 + years past their heyday.  The city is shabby-sheik with a bohemian air.  I loved it!  We found a yummy restaurant offering delicious Chilean food.  Our hotel was centrally located and pleasant but the street noise that did not stop until around 7AM made it difficult to sleep.  Next time we go to Valparaiso, we will stay further up on the hillside.

On Sunday, 12 February, we boarded the Celebrity Infinity for a 15-day cruise around Cape Horn to Buenos Aires.  We are on the cruise as I write this.  Please wish us calm seas; so far so good, but Cape Horn can have absolutely horrible weather.

Until next time---aloha from Chile.


February 4, 2012

New Zealand

Kia Ora.  Ok, I am going to do this blog a little differently.   Instead of writing the blog as I usually do and adding the photos, I have downloaded a bunch of photos and will write a caption for each.  They are not in any specific order so if you want to try to make sense of them you will need to grab a map of New Zealand.  Otherwise just enjoy the beauty of this fabulous country.  Cheers!

This is NZ or is it??

Wellington Botanical Garden
Colossal Squid's eye--it is at least 14 feet!  The largest invertebrate in the world.  It is housed at Te Papa Museum, a world class museum.
Bay of Islands--Magnificient isn't it!!

View from Urupakapaka in the Bay of Islands

Sheep, of course

Ferry in the Bay of Islands


Look on the Oyster globe.  Where is New Zealand?
Many New Zealanders we talked to would apologize for New Zealand's size and its international insignificance.  I disagree.  New Zealand has nothing to be ashamed of---it is a magically majestic place and its size and distance from the rest of the world make it even more enchanting.

This is near the Redwood Forest outside Rotorua.  The Redwoods come from California but grow twice as fast in NZ.   I'm not sure why they grow so fast here.  Check out the heron that is posing.
The Kiwi--NZ's national symbol.  We went to Rainbow Springs Park near Rotorua.  While we were visiting the nocturnal Kiwi area, an injured Kiwi was brought into the park.  We had the opportunity to see a Kiwi up close and even to pet it.  The feathers are rough on the outside but the feathers underneath are soft and down-like.   It was truly amazing.  


Blue spring:  Water is 100 meters deep 
Blue spring overflow near Rotorua


A Kea.  These are amazing birds and unlike the Kiwi's that don't fly, they do.  The Kea are very social birds.  We watched two of them having a conversation of sorts.  Actually the younger Kea who was 17 years old was harassing the older 41 year old Kea who had cataracts in one eye.  

Bay of Islands.  I just couldn't get enough photos.


The Tongariro Crossing.  The winds gusted to 60 mph.
I guess we should have really read this sign before we chose to do the crossing.  But despite the winds and limited views, the 7 hour hike was worth it.  
On the Tongariro Crossing:  Two more photos on the Crossing are below.

The Emerald Like

What the world must have looked like in the beginning




A koot in Rotorua
Amazing topography near Te Mata outside Napier

More Rotorua geothermal activity--yes, it's beautiful but smells like rotten eggs!

Bubbling mud pools in Rotorua


Mark on Urupukapuka Island

Another vista from Urupukapuka Island

Yet another view from Urupukapuka Island in the Bay of Islands

Urupukapuka Island:  Pictures don't justify its beauty!

Auckland 

Joan and Brian Hepburn.  Our FABULOUS hosts in the Bay of Islands.   Thank you for making our visit so special!

View of Auckland from Mt. Eden

A lamb running after her mom

Lana and Benjamin.  Lana was my boss at City University.  She and her family have relocated to Wellington.  We thoroughly enjoyed meeting her son Benjamin and exploring Carter Planetarium and the Botanical Garden.

Wellington from the Botanical Garden

Chocolate Mocha flower from the Wellington Botanical Garden.   New Zealand has BEAUTIFUL gardens!
The wildest antherium I have ever seen!



Joan, on one of our walks in the Bay of Islands
With Lorna, Suzanne Travis' mom.  Lorna was the consummate hostess and made our stay in Wellington extra special.  Her love of life is contagious.  Lorna thank you for taking such good care of us!  

Logan and Claire, our soon to be wed friends we met in Budapest.  We enjoyed catching up with you in Wellington. 



A little island in the Bay of Islands

Rangitoto Island near Auckland.  You can see NZ's volcanic origins.

Some things never change.  Mark is happy when he knows that Diet Coke is available.

We are off to South America.  Hasta Luego!