March 7, 2021

Berlin


Our trip by train from Schipol (Amsterdam’s airport) to Berlin was uneventful but our arrival offered us another travel lesson.  Always write down where you are staying and the telephone number.  My cousin Eric, who lives in Berlin, was kind enough to offer us his apartment while we were staying in Berlin.  Moreover he said he would meet us at Platform C when we arrived.  Unfortunately, I tried to rely on my memory (yes, that was my first mistake) and I forgot that he would be on Platform C.  I also failed to write down his phone number or address.  After attempting to access my email at an Internet machine in the train station (since there was no free Wi-Fi connections to use my computer) which if not for the help of two Norwegian students would have been impossible, I found my cousin’s contact information.  By this time he had returned home, so we caught the metro to his apartment.  It was stressful but worked out fine.

Eric was the consummate host.  With our late arrival, we went to a cafĂ©, but thereafter Eric prepared lovely dinners throughout our visit and was a fabulous tour guide.  It was fun to catch up with Eric.  He lives in the Westend of Berlin, near the Charlottenburg castle.  Day 2, Eric suggested we take a boat tour around the city.  Although the tour was conducted in German, we received an English guidebook that enabled us to follow along.  Seeing a town from the river is both relaxing and informative.  We enjoyed meeting Jutta and appreciated using her internet connection.

Mark and I are particularly fond of gardens and while in Berlin, we took as many opportunities as possible to walk the gardens of Charlottenburg castle.  (Jeanne and Linda, I highly recommend a European garden tour for our next MIWC garden function!)

The following day we went to see my cousin Laurens who I haven’t seen in more than thirty years.  It was wonderful to see him.  Lauri, I send you my love!

We also visited the Brandenburg Gate, remnants of the Berlin Wall, the Holocaust memorial near by and then the Stazi Prison Museum.  The history of the Stazi Prison will be indelibly itched in my memory.   Initially, East Germany’s Stazi Prison housed Nazis, but over time, it was where political dissonants were imprisoned.  Our tour guide was a former political prisoner.  His crime was declaring he wanted to leave East Germany when he was 18 years old.  He was held there for 10 months before the West German government bought his freedom for $250,000.  His stories of the torture and psychological stress put on the Stazi prisoners were horrific.   Growing up in the sixties and seventies, I learned little about the Soviet bloc countries.  The stories reinforce my great fortune to have been born and live in the United States.

On our third day we looked for the home where my mother spent her early years.  She was 6 years old when her father died and my mom, her brother and her mother moved to Bavaria.  We think we found her home and the park where my grandfather was found dead.  We also visited the Allied War Museum.  The museum was well done and filled with artifacts from the Berlin airlift and Berlin life following the war.  Lastly, we visited a very moving memorial to the Holocaust.  Located just behind the Grunwald train station are the tracks used by the Nazis to transport Jews from Berlin to concentration camps.  The bronze plaques placed aside the train tracks show the date of transport, number of Jews, and destination of the cars.  There were days when a train would carry 1000 Jews at a time. Thinking about the occupants of the trains gives me chills.

On a more upbeat note, we ended our stay with another fabulous evening with Eric.  It was great fun to take our dinner on the street by moving his kitchen table and goodies out on the sidewalk.


Turkey


If you are looking to meet kind, hospitable people, come to Turkey.   After getting our luggage, we decided against taking the shuttle to the hotel.  Instead we thought we would take the subway.  We walked to the subway entrance where we met a young woman who took us under her wing.  Nesi, 20 years old, had just finished her first day of work with Turkish Airlines.  She offered us our first glimpse of Turkish hospitality.  She made sure we got on the right subway line, the correct mini-bus and put us on the right track for the train to our hotel.  We are staying in the Sultanahmet district famous for the Blue Mosque, Saint Sophia/Hagia Sophia and Topkapi Palace.   Although it is full of tourists, the area is charming and well located.  On our first day we met Sadik at the Blue Mosque.  Sadik offered to take us to the Mosque and around the town if we would take a few minutes to visit his uncle’s carpet shop.  We should have known better—it was an expensive day---but since we wanted a carpet, I am glad we bought it from his uncle.  Their shop became our home away from home.  Sadik is Turkish, a graduate of Colorado College and now living in Durango, Colorado with his wife and son.  Sadik, like Nesi, has been a lovely host. 



Over the next few days we visited St. Sophia, once a Catholic church, then a mosque called Hagia Sophia, and now a museum; 


the Blue Mosque, a dazzlingly decorated mosque still in use today, the Basilica Cistern which supplied water to the town in Roman times, took a cruise on the Bosphoros, joined the crowd of tourists at the Spice Market 
and watched afternoon prayer at a mosque built for the mother of one of the Sultans, roamed around the Grand Bazaar, explored Topkapi Palace with its jewels and mosaic tiled salons and experienced the hustle and bustle of this colorful city that straddles Europe and Asia.  I even had a Turkish bath!  This was a highlight for me, particularly the “bubbling” when I was doused with bubble bath as I lay on the hot stone rocks.  Thank you Ronnie and Natasha for sharing this experience with me!


Unfortunately, the beautiful weather we have been experiencing for most of our trip, has finally given way to autumn wind and rain.  Although the nasty weather didn’t stop our exploration, it has resulted in Mark catching a cold and me a sore throat. 


After five days in Istanbul, we headed to Cappadocia, a region in the middle of Turkey, known for its unique geological formations called fairy chimneys and its many caves.   We even stayed in a cave for our three day visit!   For two days we explored the area including caves used by the early Christians seeking refuge from the Romans, caves used by the locals to escape invading armies, niches for pigeons whose dropping were used for fertilizer, workshops for local crafts including pottery, 

rug and jewelry making and beautiful valleys filled with fascinating geological specimens.   Our tour guide, Gorham was fantastic; his knowledge of world history and local geography totally impressed us.  I wish he were joining us for the rest of our travels in Turkey. 







We are once again at the airport.  Today we will fly from Kayseri to Izmir.  Stay turned for our next edition. 



Cambodian contrast


The international airport in Siem Reap is three years old, clean, air conditioned and elegant.   Likewise, the main road from the airport to our hotel is lined with very large, brand-new, internationally known chain hotels.  This is not the way I pictured Cambodia.  Our hotel, though more local in style, is also lovely but the road it is on is made of rutted, soft sandy clay.  Cambodia is a country of contrasts.

We are only here for a few days.  The cost of a flight to Siem Reap exceeds any of the flights we have taken so far.  Cambodia wants travelers but it seems only those who are well heeled.  

The hotel we stayed was on a rutted, dirt road, just off the main drag.  The Auberge Monte Royal is a charming oasis.  Our room had a four-poster bed, bright white down duvet, a lovely lanai, a delicious breakfast with 6 choices of fresh fruit and all the amenities of a modern hotel.


Following a delicious breakfast on the hotel lanai, we met our tour guide Dee and driver Rosa.  Our three-person tour, set up by Barbara, was, thankfully, in an air-conditioned minivan.   Rosa offered us bottles of cold water.  Dee and Rosa took good care of us during our stay.  Cambodia was scorching and humid even early in the morning.  We spent two days visiting various wats.  The most famous wats are those in the Angkor Wat complex.  These wats were built for King Suryavarman II as early as the 12th century.  However, it was King Jayavarman VII in 1181-1227] (aka Jaia 7) who is credited by the Cambodian people for building temples that honored both Hindu gods and goddesses and the Buddha.  Jaia 7’s religious tolerance allowed both religions to coexist and created peace in Cambodia.  Unfortunately, religious tolerance was not continued under his nephew and successor, Jaia VIII.  Jaia VIII had all the Hindu gods and goddesses removed and replaced by statues of Buddha. 


The first morning we explored some wats in Bayon, on the outskirts of Siem Reap.  Seven man-made lakes surrounded this complex.  These lakes represented the seven oceans within the kingdom.  Man-made lakes surround many of the wats.  We also visited the Jungle wat, a wat taken over by the jungle and used for the filming of Indian Jones.  We did a lot of climbing. 

On our second day we concentrated on the Angkor Wat complex. We admired the bas-relief on the temple at Angkor Watt.  The bas-relief is a pictorial retelling of Hindu mythology.  We marveled at the architectural genius and engineering feat evident in the Wats.  We ruminate on the lives that must have been lost constructing these magnificent monuments.  What have we constructed that would stand this test of time?

All were spectacular; but after awhile, though each was fascinating, I began to get temple weary and confused.  Happily we took a break and visited a silk farm.  I found the visit fascinating.  

However, what I realize I like most about traveling is the people we meet.  One who touched my heart was Sophea Pheach, a Cambodian woman who left her country as a child when her family became political refugees during Pol Pot’s regime.  She grew up in Uruguay and was educated in France.  A few years ago she returned to Cambodia to found an orphanage.  From there she has continued to help her fellow Cambodians by establishing a silk farm employing over 110 locals, many of them orphans and poor local girls, and making gold silk that is turned into museum quality tapestries, clothing, bedding and accessories. Sophea’s determination to preserve this traditional Cambodian handicraft and helping her country is both admirable and inspirational.  Check out her site at http://www.goldensilk.org/index.html  
and a wonderful review of her business and one of a kind silk products at http://luxurytravelreview.com/2011/11/07/interesting-inspiring-visit-to-cambodia-golden-silk-farm/

Mark and I also met a young man, Ping, in a temple who spoke to us of his struggle to get an education.  As the child of farmers, he is not able to pay for his schooling.  He was in school at a monastery but had to return home when his father was injured.  He longs to attend school but is now too old to attend the monastery school.  He has found a monk who works with him on English.  He is unable to marry since he cannot find a good job.  This reminded me of the predicament we heard about by some of the men we met in Jordan.  It seems that the current employment situation has had a direct impact on their marriage prospects.  

As I said earlier, our visit to Cambodia was extremely short.  We had a brief glimpse into the poverty that still exists there as we took a taxi to a restaurant that was outside the heavily trafficked tourist area.  On the way we saw people living in squalor along the riverbank.  With the recent memory of the flooding in Thailand, we wonder how long these people will have their homes before flooding washes theirs away also.

As I reflect on my time in Cambodia, I once again realize how fortunate I am. 

On to New Zealand

Visiting with Joan and Brian near their beautiful home in the Bay of Islands






June 1, 2014

Mark


Turkey
Turkey

Paris



Hanoi

Ankor Wat

Southern Bali

Smurfs on the Great Barrier Reef

Wellington with Lorna Lovegrove

Ushwia, Argentina

Spain

Seville, Spain

Helsinki, Finland

On the water in Halong Bay
Mark, Sadik and Sami in Istanbul

Fish nibbling  Thailand

Ready for adventure in Bangkok, Thailand

Coke in New Zealand

Center of the Earth Ecuador

St Petersburg, Russia
Lee and Mark in Penang, Malaysia
St. John's Bascilica Selchuk

June 1, 2012

Finding OZ and Santa: A cruise to the Baltic (in two parts)


Part 2

St. Petersburg was our next stop.  The Russians require all Americans to have a visa or to be part of a tour.  Since we had only booked our cruise two weeks in advance, we were unable to get a visa or to arrange an independent tour.  So, in order to get off the ship and see St. Petersburg, we needed to book a cruise excursion.  Happily both of our tours were great. 

St. Petersburg on the Neve River

The first day we took a tour to Catherine’s Palace and around St. Petersburg.  Our tour guide, Victoria, offered an excellent commentary.  Catherine’s Palace was exquisite and opulent. 
Catherine Palace


Catherine Palace

Catherine Palace

After the Palace we returned to St. Petersburg for lunch and a trip to St. Isaac’s Cathedral, the largest church in St. Petersburg and the Peter and Paul Fortress, built during the reign of Peter the Great in 1703 to protect Peter’s new capital from the Swedes. 
St. Issac's Cathedral:  St. Petersburg's largest church

Outside Peter and Paul Fortress

Wedding party visiting Peter and Paul Fortress:  It is customary for the wedding parties to
visit tourist sites in the city and have their pictures taken 


With Peter the Great 

The last stop was the Church of the Spilled Blood, the name given to the location where Alexander II was mortally wounded.  His father, Alexander I had the church constructed in his son’s memory. 

The Church of the Spilled Blood

Our second day was the 303rd anniversary of the city of St. Petersburg.  

Stock Exchange with Rostral towers lit for St. Petersburg's birthday celebration 

We spent four hours walking all over the Hermitage, one of the most famous museums in the world.  Not only is the Hermitage an impressive museum with over 3 million exhibits but it was the Winter Palace of Peter the Great and his daughter Elizabeth.  The Hermitage was even more magnificent than I imagined. 

The Hermitage

Venetian mosaic


Rembrandt:  Young Woman with Earring  1654

Raphael:  The Holy Family or Joseph without a Beard

I still can’t believe I actually visited Russia.  Most of the time it felt like we were in any other country.  
Fashion: St. Petersburg style

My only inkling of isolation was the “no man’s land” located just inside the port.  As you enter the port you can see cars and people lining the chain link fence.  

"No Man's Land"

According to our guide, the port guards are looking for terrorists.   I think they are actually there looking for defectors.  I left Russia feeling glad that I was born in the United States.

Estonia flag

The next day we docked in Tallinn, Estonia.  Our ship pulled into port early affording us a little time to enjoy the city without hordes of other tourists.  It is a lovely medieval town with easy access from the port.  The city has been declared a World Heritage site.  We walked around the old town delighted by the colorful medieval buildings and friendly people. 

Tallinn road

Then it was another sea day to relax and eat (yes, one of the liabilities of cruising) and our last stop, Copenhagen.  Once again we arrived early and walked.  This was our first inclement day though happily, it only sprinkled briefly.  We have been so blessed by good weather on our travels!

Tallinn shopkeeper

Tallinn church:  St. Olaf's Church

Tallinn, Estonia

Our last port was Copenhagen.  Once again our time in Copenhagen was limited but we managed to see quite a few sites.

The Little Mermaid

Of course we saw the Little Mermaid, Nyhavn canal and Trivoli but we also visited the Marble Church, the Town Hall, King’s Gardens, the Botanical Gardens, the Amalienborg Museum, Christiansborg Palace and the Danish Resistance Museum.  I was disappointed we didn’t have time for the Danish Design Museum and the National Museum but now I have a great excuse to return. 

King's Gardens in Copenhagen

Copenhagen Town Hall

Copenhagen is charming but expensive.  We also peeked into Georg Jensen and walked down Stroget and Frederiksberggade.  Judging by the prices, the Denmark’s kroner is financially sound.

Nyhavn canal in Copenhagen
Tomorrow we end our cruise in Amsterdam where we boarded 13 days ago.  It has been a wonderful cruise.  We head to Iceland Friday evening and back to Boston on Saturday night.  Then we will take six weeks to drive back to Washington.

Thank you for taking the time to read my blog.  I hope you have been inspired to step out into our world.  I can’t wait until our next adventure!